![]() It is smart enough to be able to vary the current slightly if operating temperatures could lead to damage, or to limit the difference between input and output voltages. ![]() The charger has three different charging stages including Boost, Absorption and Float.ĭuring the boost stage the charger maintains a constant current until the battery voltage reaches its absorption value. This ensures not only a full charge but also helps to improve the health of your battery whilst also prolonging it’s life span. Using a multi-stage charging profile to ensure a complete charge, the BCDC ensures a deep and complete charge of your vehicle’s battery. THE BCDC1225D helps to ensure your auxiliary battery stays charged 100% of the time, so that you always have the power that you need, when you need it. REDARC TOTAL VEHICLE MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS.I don't run a DC/DC or a BCDC, Solar to aux via MPPT, ''Donkey'' to start. Interrupting the blue wire, as a precaution I would suggest a fuse inline near the unit as there is no protection running live power in out over and around to a switch and back to the unit, as you are not bypassing the smart box, if you do leave the switch on, inadvertantly, with no means of charge connected, the smart box will disconnect when the start battery is at 12.7V. it takes the ''donkey'' out of the equation, if said ''donkey'' forgets to turn it off? I went this way after frustration of it working fine until I was the furtherest away from home, to then cut in and out every 30 seconds protecting itself, which in a way is good, but painful to bypass in didly squat nowhere. The special part is the little red square bit with brown blue and black wires. Much perseverance with silver solder and 2 separate 100amp solenoids I relegated them to the spare pile and bought a 200amp continuous duty and simply ''donkey'' switch it on or off. redarc are 100amp or 200amp solenoids, constant starting and charging from both ways and occasional winch use arks up the terminals in a 100amp unit, who would have thought that? It showed a fault code 3 flashes = 0.5volt drop across the two large terminals and shuts down. I had a SBI12>D< ''D'' is for ''Dual sensing'' it connects both ways. 2 and 3 on the switch must be wired correct as well to get the on light to function.Īh, no, I don't have mine set up like this. Interrupting the black the led polarity in the switch is wrong and no illumination. interrupting the blue feed side with your switch will get the full illuminated on function in the switch as in LEDiode powered and earthed via switch earth, in the on position. interrupting either side with a switch breaks the circuit, the unit will NOT function. The 2 terminals black and blue nuts and washers at the very bottom are connected to a coil of wire. ![]() is why redarc recommends the earth push switch, that you want to replace. You cannot wire it similar to the stand alone sbi, the smart box will connect. ![]() It has an override wire? leave it blank unconnected. Then interrupting the other small blue ring terminal wire through your switch and back to that terminal. I am earthing the ring the wiring diagram says to put the momentary push switch on. The smarts simply won't allow the solenoid to function. Sensing disconnect where no matter which wire is interrupted/connected Thus could be removed, eliminating a non function of the unit due to low voltage Is to connect the 2 batteries for ''jump start'' scenario Of the solenoid as shown in the wiring diagram, My opinion: the smarts on the SBI are redundant, as the only function Then from 3 on switch back to sbi īack light and on light should both function? Enables back light when dash lights are on.Ģ will be used to switch the earth from the SBIĮG: sbi earth wire to 2 and then to earthĨ becomes redundant and on function light will not illuminate.Įg: switch on, - secondary light denoting the switch is On position.ĭisconnect the other small terminal on the sbi base ![]()
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